2021年6月23日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Two new loafers from Martiniano Lopez Crozet, portraits of botanicals — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.


A Landmark Hotel Reopens in Boston

A Deluxe King room at the Langham, Boston.Courtesy of the Langham, Boston

By Michaela Trimble

T Contributor


The Langham, Boston, one of the city's landmark hotels located near the Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy Greenway, has reopened after an extensive, multiyear renovation. While the property debuted in 2003, in the former 1920s-era Federal Reserve Bank of Boston, the Langham Hospitality Group tasked architect Dyer Brown and interior design firm Richmond International to oversee its next evolution, including a refreshed ground-floor lobby with emerald bankers' lamps, marble slab countertops and velvet banquettes, and a revitalized Lincoln Ballroom. Of the 312 rooms, the loft-style suites offer two-story, brass-embossed windows with views of the neighborhood, while the property's penthouse suite features a living room complete with a baby grand piano and an elegant dining room for eight. Guests can imbibe gin- and bourbon-based cocktails at the Fed, a lounge reminiscent of the city's Jazz Age bars, and enjoy family-style dishes like roasted porchetta and cioppino stew prepared by chef Stephen Bukoff at the Italian restaurant Grana. langhamhotels.com.


Brilliant Blooms Captured by Kate Friend

Left: a rose, photographed at the Cotswolds home of the architect John Pawson, for Kate Friend's "John Pawson, White Rose, Cotswolds" (2020). Right: the wild strawberries in the studio space of the photographer Juergen Teller were plucked from an urban plot conceived by the landscape designer Dan Pearson for "Juergen Teller, Strawberry, Latimer Road, London" (2020).Kate Friend

By Aimee Farrell

T Contributor

When British still-life photographer Kate Friend began asking fellow artists and creatives to share their favorite flower, she wasn't prepared for the response she'd receive. "The plants became a way into people's lives," she says. "Sometimes they were an incredibly moving reminder of a late mother or a lost child." Traveling around the British Isles with her Pentax 67 since the summer of 2019 — and, when possible, throughout lockdown — Friend found herself setting up makeshift sitting studios in sheds, offices, barns and backyards to capture an array of plant life that's as eclectic as the people behind them. Now, the project has given rise to a poignant, and surprisingly intimate, series of botanical portraits on exhibition at the Garden Museum in Lambeth, South London. There's artist Maggi Hambling's rambunctious 30-foot cactus, fashion designer Molly Goddard's fluffy pink ranunculus and designer Margaret Howell's perfectly preserved hydrangeas, among others. "Each flower is an emblem of the person who chose it," Friend says. "Kate Friend: Botanical Portraits, As Chosen By …" is on display at the Garden Museum through Aug. 1, gardenmuseum.org.



Handmade Loafers From Buenos Aires

Two new loafers from the Martiniano Resort 2022 collection. From left: the Volker and the Pollok, available this November.Marcelo Setton

By Minju Pak

This year marks the 10th anniversary of the "glove shoe," Martiniano Lopez Crozet's elegant slip-on that spent the past decade populating the closets of both men and women. Its slow-burn growth in popularity is in part due to the designer's aversion to the fashion industry's fixation with expansion. "It's a bit opposite for my brand," he explains over email, "because in order to keep up with the quality of the shoes, I only work with two small manufacturers in limited productions." Though the glove shoe — which, like all of Lopez Crozet's designs, are handmade in Argentina, where he is from — accounts for 60 percent of his production, his foray into loafers was a natural development: "I was influenced by three Argentinian staples: the loafer, the espadrille and the riding boot," he writes. Now, his 2022 resort collection includes two new loafers: the high heel Volker and a flat called the Pollok, both of which will be available in stores later this year. Before Lopez Crozet became a shoe designer, he spent 16 years in the band Los Super Elegantes, which was chosen to perform at the 2004 Whitney Biennial, where he learned to "approach projects through research and then make them." The lesson has served him well. The Volker, $587, and Pollok, $564, will be available this November, martinianoshoes.com.


A Natural Wine Bar Opens in London

Left: in the private dining room of Bar Crispin, the wine cabinet is made of raw steel while the lampshades are hand-painted by Viola Lanari. Right: Lanari's plaster, steel and glass stone pendant lamps are suspended in the main bar, with turquoise steel candlestick holders by Jermaine Gallacher.Oskar Proctor

By Sophie Bew

T Contributor


Long since the Beatles visited London's Carnaby Street in the '60s, Kingly Street, which runs parallel, has "become a bit corporate," says entrepreneur Dominic Hamdy, who recently opened the natural wine bar and restaurant Bar Crispin on the block. Determined to bring a sense of longed-for artisanship to the area, he turned to British designer and design dealer Jermaine Gallacher for his idiosyncratic eye. Cue the iconic '80s black tubular steel and PVC string Spaghetti chairs by Giandomenico Belotti for Alias — enough to seat 20 on the ground floor and 12 in the private dining room in the basement. Elsewhere in the space are custom-made mirrors, benches in aubergine and chocolate bull hide and roughly hewn plaster pendant lamps from London-based sculptor Viola Lanari. The setting, along with a modern European menu of small plates and a vast wine list with varieties from volcanic regions in Tenerife, Sicily and Greece, makes for a perfect pit stop for those hoping to experience a more laid-back vibe. 19 Kingly Street, London, crispinlondon.com.


Svetlana Kana Radević's Long Overdue Retrospective

The Hotel Zlatibor in Užice, Serbia (left), designed by the architect Svetlana Kana Radević (right).Left: Mirko Lovric, courtesy of the Museum of Yugoslavia archive. Right: courtesy of the Svetlana Kana Radević personal archive.

By Kat Herriman

T Contributor

"Skirting the Centre: Svetlana Kana Radević on the Periphery of Postwar Architecture," the first major retrospective of the late Yugoslav architect and designer, is currently on view at this year's Venice Biennale of Architecture. The show, held at the Palazzo Palumbo Fossati, comprises a collection of recently discovered drawings, writings and photographs from the architect's life and professional projects. Blueprints and images of her inaugural and prizewinning building, the Hotel Podgorica — a Brutalist structure that sits along the Moraca River — christen the entryway. From there, the works unfold like a diary, documenting an oeuvre that has, until now, gone largely underrecognized. Radević is, in fact, known as the first female Montenegrin architect, having studied with titans like Louis Kahn in the U.S. and Kisho Kurokawa in Japan. She went on to establish a practice all her own, one that married traditional construction techniques and flourishes of the region with the antifascist principals of the day, evident in her Hotel Zlatibor in Užice, Serbia, and Hotel Mojkovac, in Montenegro. Most of her structures — memorials, a residential tower and other hotels — stand in Podgorica, Montenegro's capital, and were constructed after the region had been decimated by the 84 bombs dropped during World War II. Twenty years after her death, Svetlana Kana Radević is finally getting her due. "Skirting the Centre: Svetlana Kana Radević on the Periphery of Postwar Architecture" is on view through Nov. 21, 2021, at the Palazzo Palumbo Fossati, S. Marco, 2597, 30124, Venice, Italy, labiennale.org.


A Tour of Cranbrook Art Museum's Collections Wing

The campus of the Cranbrook Art Academy in Bloomfield Hills, Mich.Andrew Moore

The campus that contains the Cranbrook Art Museum and its sister educational institution, Cranbrook Art Academy, located outside Detroit in the suburban enclave of Bloomfield Hills, is "probably the most designed environment you will encounter in the United States," says the museum's director, Andrew Blauvelt. Last week, the museum opened a survey of work by more than 200 former students and faculty from the school, which was founded nearly 90 years ago by the newspaper magnate George G. Booth, and became famous as the cradle of midcentury modernism, with design titans such as Florence Knoll, Charles Eames, Eero Saarinen and Harry Bertoia all studying and teaching at the institution. The great Finnish architect Eliel Saarinen (father of the architect Eero) designed the over-300-acre campus, built on fallow farmland; served as the school's first president; and remained living and working there until his death in 1950. In anticipation of the exhibition, we took a tour of the campus and the Collections Wing, a.k.a., the Vault, an aboveground storage area created to house the art academy's historically significant and ever-evolving collection. To see more, visit tmagazine.com — and follow us on Instagram.

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On Tech: What is Facebook?

Facebook keeps dabbling in new things. Is it now an overstuffed mess, or a genius idea factory?

What is Facebook?

Shira Inbar

This question might sound silly, but I'm serious: What is Facebook?

Did you know that Facebook has a dating service, online job listings, a version of Craigslist, a new collection of podcasts and live audio chat rooms, multiple copycats of Zoom, a section just for college students, two different spots for "TV" shows, a feature like TikTok (but bad) and software that office workers can use to communicate? On Tuesday, the company also outlined new developments in its efforts to get more businesses to sell merchandise directly inside Facebook and the company's other apps.

If you knew that Facebook was doing all of this … gold star, I guess. You spend way too much time on the internet.

These zillion experiments could transform Facebook from the place where we connect with fellow gardening lovers or shout about politics to — well, I don't know what Facebook might become. (Facebook might not know, either.)

The company's constant tinkering raises the question: Is Facebook trying so hard because it's excited about what's next, or perhaps because, like its peers, it is no longer so adept at predicting and then leading digital revolutions?

It's worth paying attention to Facebook's attempts at reinvention, or whatever it's doing. We might not want to admit it, but Facebook's choices rewire how billions of people interact, the ways that businesses reach their customers and the strategies of every other technology company.


So what's going on? Why is Facebook stuffing its apps with so many new features? Partly, I think, we're seeing a conundrum facing many successful companies: Is it better to focus on what made the company a star in the first place but risk irrelevance if it misses the big new thing? Or is it smarter to go off in new directions, but at the risk of tinkering so much that the company kills its golden goose?

I asked my colleague Mike Isaac, an astute watcher of Facebook's inner workings, whether Facebook was trying so many things because it's optimistic about new opportunities or because it's worried about staying still. He said the answer was probably both.

On the optimism side is the reality that successful companies have a lot of power to repeat their successes. Maybe Facebook's copycats of Zoom, TikTok or Nextdoor aren't great, but the company has many ways to nudge the billions of people using its apps to try them out, until everyone we know is Zooming on Facebook. Big Tech operates under a kind of Manifest Destiny — a belief that powerful companies can and should constantly expand the frontiers of what they do to keep growing.

On the fear front, maybe it seems ridiculous that a company being sued and investigated for being too powerful might be worried about failing. But Mark Zuckerberg, like many tech bosses, obsesses over the history of technology in which evolutionary changes have repeatedly ruined what seemed to be unstoppable industry leaders.


There is no guarantee that Facebook, Instagram and WhatsApp will remain dominant communications or entertainment choices for billions of people. It is far from a sure thing that Facebook, which generates nearly all of its revenue from selling ads to businesses that want to get our attention, can figure out how to make real money from podcasts or from turning WhatsApp into a go-to way that a dress shop or fruit vendor sells products.

Mike also raised a profound question about both Facebook and Google, where some leaders fear the company is no longer inventive enough. Have Big Tech companies become so big and successful that they've lost their touch?

One reason Facebook became the company that we know today is that Zuckerberg and other executives understood before almost anyone else how the internet — and smartphones most of all — would change human communications and give Facebook novel ways to profit from those interactions. Tech executives aren't oracles, but wow, Zuckerberg got a few big predictions right.

And Facebook's leaders are most likely hoping that all of this inventing will help it stay popular and rich for years to come.

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Before we go …

  • Big Tech makes its case in Washington: Alarmed by congressional legislation that might alter or break up technology giants like Amazon and Google, Big Tech has mobilized its lobbying armies in Washington, my colleagues report. The pushback, including in a phone call between Apple's chief executive and Speaker Nancy Pelosi, is meeting some resistance from skeptical lawmakers.
  • "We are very free": My colleagues and the news organization ProPublica examined thousands of online videos that seemed to show people in China's Xinjiang region using strikingly similar language to deny claims of government repression. They found evidence that the videos were a coordinated Chinese government campaign to shape global opinion by widely circulating propaganda on websites like YouTube and Twitter.
  • How not to ruin your work life with technology: For people who are working partly in an office and at home, Brian X. Chen suggests which technologies to use (or not). Two ideas from his column: Consider taking a break from screens at the end of each week, and call colleagues on the telephone.

Hugs to this

Two words: professional tag. Seriously, these people playing a souped up version of the children's game are amazingly athletic.

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