2021年7月28日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Wu Tsang's latest installation, a restored Art Deco hotel — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.


A Restored Art Deco Hotel First Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright

The adults-only pool at the Arizona Biltmore.Courtesy of Arizona Biltmore, a Waldorf Astoria Resort

By Michaela Trimble

T Contributor


Set at the base of the Phoenix Mountain Preserve, the Arizona Biltmore was once a retreat for the 1920s Hollywood jet set. Surrounded by palm trees, this landmark Waldorf Astoria Resort is revered for its Art Deco design — architect Frank Lloyd Wright was the lead consultant for the hotel's commissioned architect, Albert Chase McArthur. Welcoming a new stage in its history, the property recently reopened after a 15-month renovation, with the Hilton hospitality group tapping design consultants Virserius Studio, the architecture firm PHX Architecture and Jim Smith of Serving the Nation, Inc., to oversee the property's restoration, which included a refresh of its 701 contemporary guest rooms (luxury cottages and villas among them). Also new to the property is an adults-only pool and the transformed Wright Bar, where the famous tequila sunrise cocktail was originally invented by the bartender Gene Sulit. During a stay at the property, guests can also enjoy six additional pools, tennis courts and two 18-hole championship golf courses at the Arizona Biltmore Golf Club. arizonabiltmore.com.


Catbird's Collaboration With Painter Cassi Namoda

The artist Cassi Namoda wearing the pieces from her Catbird collaboration in her East Hampton studio.Courtesy of Catbird

By Angela Koh

Leigh Batnick Plessner, the co-creative director of Catbird, Brooklyn's destination for fine jewelry, slid into the artist Cassi Namoda's DMs back in September. A fan of Namoda's paintings, Plessner wanted to gift her with a piece from Catbird's collaboration with the Met. Namoda herself has long been fascinated with the history of jewelry; her own collection ranges from an Ethiopian bronze bracelet to a Hellenistic necklace with Carnelian. The two soon decided to create a capsule collection of their own. The line, which took eight months to design, is inspired by Namoda's home country, Mozambique, and the real-life hidden treasures on sunken merchant ships unearthed by locals on deep dive expeditions. "My cousin, who lives there, has the most beautiful collection from these excursions," says the artist. The collaboration consists of seven pieces, including an aquamarine choker and a matching garnet-and-pearl necklace and earring set inspired by Princess Elizabeth of Toro, an accomplished lawyer, politician and diplomat, who is one of Namoda's muses. In honor of the launch, Catbird will be making donations to two Mozambique charities, Save the Children and Kurandza. The collection will be available exclusively on catbirdnyc.com and in their flagship store beginning July 28. From $64.



Wu Tsang's Work About Beverly Glenn-Copeland

Installation views of Wu Tsang's "Anthem" (2021).© Wu Tsang. Photo: David Heald © Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, 2021.

By Chantal McStay

T Contributor

When the Guggenheim's assistant curator X Zhu-Nowell invited the artist Wu Tsang to exhibit one of her films last summer, Tsang proposed an ambitious new site-specific work. The resulting video and sound installation, "Wu Tsang: Anthem," marks the first of its scope in the museum's rotunda. It presents a film-portrait of the composer, singer and transgender activist Beverly Glenn-Copeland, who produced striking and soulful experimental albums in relative obscurity beginning in the '70s, until a recent surge in interest from cult record collectors led to the 2016 reissue of his 1986 studio album "Keyboard Fantasies" and an international tour in 2017, as well as a 2019 feature documentary by Posy Dixon. Like many of Tsang's works — which combine narrative, documentary and fantasy to explore states of "in-betweenness" — "Anthem" is a collaboration with its subject: "I'm always trying to find ways to distill the essence of what that performer's energy is," says Tsang. To capture Glenn-Copeland, the artist navigated strict Covid protocols, including a 17-day quarantine in Canada, where the singer is based, before recording him performing a series of compositions. Projected onto a billowing 84-foot-long curtain that hangs from the oculus, the film seeks to create the atmosphere of a public address, says Tsang, centering Glenn-Copeland as a leader and trans elder in a way that is both monumental and playful. "Wu Tsang: Anthem" is on view through Sep. 6 at the Guggenheim Museum, 1071 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York, guggenheim.org.


A New Line of Sunglasses, Handmade in Italy

Left: a model wearing a pair of Sabah Suns in Isola Sun. Right: Sabah Sun colors, including (from top) Santa Fe Sun, Marfa Sun, Isola Sun and Beirut Sun.Jacob Pritchard

By Caroline Newton


After the success of their unique venture into backgammon boards, Sabah — the boutique shoemakers best known for their modern twist on traditional Turkish leather slip-ons — are at it again. With Sabah Sun, which debuted this month, they've released their first line of sunglasses. Handmade in Italy, these round-framed glasses are distinct in color choice (from transparent blue to amber and more) as well as look and feel (the frames are substantial yet lightweight). Featuring Carl Zeiss lenses that offer 100 percent UV protection, Sabah's first-edition specs have a limited run of 400. $265 a pair, sabah.am.


One-of-a-Kind Shirts Made From Vintage Clothing

Left: the Ettienne, a color-block style that requires combining two shirts. Right: the Lyria, a cropped warm-weather silhouette.Jenna Saraco & Nicole Steriovski

By Jane Gayduk

T Contributor

While the pandemic kept her locked down at her Brooklyn home, designer Emily Bryngelson brought an idea to life, one that was five years in the making. In December, she hosted the first Sibling Vintage pop-up — named in honor of her sister, who died last year — at the Williamsburg, Brooklyn, vintage shop Horizons. There, she sold dress shirts, which had been reworked from vintage men's clothing, with modern silhouettes (often with cinched waists or cropped cuts) and directional details including cutouts across the back and floral eyelet embroidery. Bryngelson spent the better part of 10 years designing for large-scale brands like J.Crew as well as smaller lines such as Sea. She witnessed the industry's rapid cycle of production up close and had long dreamed of giving discarded garments a new life. Last year, she began searching for high-quality cotton button-downs on eBay, in thrift stores and rag houses, and has now amassed an inventory of about 200, all waiting to be reimagined. Because every shirt is different in size and fit, Bryngelson can't use a pattern and must sew each piece individually at her Boerum Hill studio. This deliberate slowness "is different than what people are used to, and how the process of design is," she says. By contrast, these one-of-a-kind pieces, which she now posts on the brand's Instagram and website, tend to sell out within minutes. From $110, siblingvintage.com.


Rosita Missoni's Villa at the Foot of the Italian Alps

Rosita Missoni shows off a newspaper clipping of her former husband Ottavio competing in the 1948 Olympic Games in London.Caterina Viganò

Art, flowers and fabrics are layered throughout Rosita Missoni's house, a modern and airy two-story villa in Sumirago, some 30 miles northwest of Milan. Rosita and her husband, Ottavio, who co-founded Missoni — best known for its rainbow-hued, chevron-patterned knits — in 1953, built the home in 1971, a few years after breaking ground on their factory, which is still in operation and located barely a minute's walk away. "We wanted to live all the time where we would have liked to spend our weekends," Rosita says of this verdant hollow at the foot of the Italian Alps. She especially liked that the property affords a view of Monte Rosa, which she could also see from her childhood home in the nearby city of Golasecca and which, at 90, she still finds delightful. "Most days, I wake up and take a photo of the mountain," she says, scrolling through her camera roll past dozens of pictures of the pink-tinged peak. Then, before making her way to her studio at the factory, she might take a stroll through the property's grounds and garden — a softly sloping lawn penned in by towering trees and blooming bushes — clipping coral peonies and blush pink dogwood blossoms as she goes. "I like all flowers except for white ones," she pronounces while standing next to a neon magenta azalea. "I need to be surrounded by color." For more, visit tmagazine.com — and follow us on Instagram.

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On Tech: Is Robinhood’s disruption a good thing?

The stock trading app goes public this week. Here's why the company has gotten so much attention.

Is Robinhood's disruption a good thing?

The stock trading app goes public this week. Here's why the company has gotten so much attention.

Maria Chimishkyan

Robinhood has made stock trading fun, cheap and appealing to young people who aren't rich — not the crowd that the finance industry typically caters to.

But the app also has a track record of grievous mistakes, and it may not be good for people's wallets if investing feels like a game.

Ahead of Robinhood's (highly unusual) initial public offering planned for this week, my colleague Erin Griffith spoke to me about the app's ups and downs and how the company fits in the financial technology revolution.

Shira: Let's start with you explaining to us why Robinhood is getting so much attention.

Erin: Robinhood has delivered on the Silicon Valley trope of disrupting what came before it. Many start-ups aim for this, but few have actually pulled it off. The company made stock trading as easy as playing Candy Crush. It made trades free, and it brought a lot of young people into stock investing. It forced other online brokers like Charles Schwab, Fidelity and E-Trade to change more than they had in years.

But in the same way that people are discussing the trade-offs of companies like Google and Facebook, people are also pointing out that Robinhood has created dangerous downsides.

What are those downsides?

Robinhood can feel to users more like a video game or a casino than an investment account, and that can sometimes compel inexperienced investors to take big risks, especially when doing a type of trading that involves borrowing money. The investment managers Warren Buffett and Charlie Munger recently discussed Robinhood, with Munger calling it "beneath contempt" and "a ​​sleazy, disreputable operation."


Robinhood also makes more money when its users trade more, but a lot of research has found that such behavior doesn't generate the best investment returns. (The company's financial documents say that a "vast majority" of its customers don't fit the definition of "day traders" who do a lot of rapid-fire trades.)

Professional investors can be reckless, too, and what they do sometimes is indistinguishable from gambling. Is the criticism of Robinhood just an elitist attitude that most people can't be trusted to invest their own money?

That's what Robinhood believes, as evidenced by a defiant letter that the company's founder wrote to potential IPO investors. But people who follow the company have also asked whether Robinhood's zeal for growth and shaking up the system has led to a pattern of serious errors.

What kinds of errors?

The app has crashed at some crucial moments. It recently paid a record amount to the securities industry's self-regulatory body for that and other mistakes including not doing enough to screen out customers that weren't suited for a type of higher-risk trading.


Last year, a young man killed himself after a misunderstanding that led him to believe that he was in the hole by more than $700,000 from Robinhood trades, and he couldn't reach the company to sort it out. A traditional broker might not have allowed that type of investment without guidance, or it might have been easier for a customer to find help.

You've written that we're in a golden age for new types of financial companies including Robinhood, the payments start-up Stripe and semi-automated financial advisers. What's going on?

Many people have wanted something other than big, traditional financial institutions, but they didn't have many good or reliable alternatives. When Simple, one of the first mobile banking companies, crashed all the time, the attitude nearly a decade ago was: This is what happens when your bank is just an app.

Fast forward a few years and now the technology building blocks for newer financial companies have become more solid, and trust in them is building among the public and regulators. It's great for people to have more choices for banking and finance, but again there are trade-offs.


A number of these companies have struggled with repeated outages, frozen accounts, hacks and other major issues. Conventional financial institutions have many problems, but they're also not likely to lock you out of your money without recourse.

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Before we go …

  • Words fail to capture how rich these companies are. The combined profits of Apple, Microsoft and Google for three months were four times Walmart's profit for a whole year. Yeah, they're rich.
  • Kids use the internet. How do we keep them safe? Facebook's Instagram outlined new measures to keep teenagers from unwelcome interactions with adults in the app, and it won't allow advertising targeted to kids' interests or online activity, my colleague Erin Woo reported. But as the company was touting its new protection measures, The Wall Street Journal found automated Instagram recommendations of horrifying sexualized hashtags and comments about children.
  • Look, we NEED mindless TV: The HBO Max streaming video app has been glitchy, particularly on the Roku streaming gadget for TVs. Bloomberg News spoke to frustrated customers, some of whom have left 37 pages of HBO app gripes or workarounds on Roku's website. (The root cause of all this is a streaming TV business model that replicated all of the old TV habits.)

Hugs to this

You gotta watch the TikTok star James "Bear" Bailey enchanting people at a convenience store by singing the R&B song "All My Life." (Bailey regularly posts videos of himself singing in a gas station store near his home.)

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