2021年11月24日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A Juergen Teller monograph, mezcal with a mission — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.


Shopping the Sicilian Way

Left: the interior of Tenuta market. Right: the shop's exterior on West Main Street in North Canaan, Conn.Eric Petschek
Author Headshot

By Kari Molvar

T Contributor


After a stint soaking up Sicilian cuisine and visiting flour mills, citrus groves and cheese makers at the Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School southeast of Palermo, Ian Edwards, a former director of public relations at Alexander Wang, opened Tenuta, an Italian food market in North Canaan, Conn., with his partner, Travis Powell. The shop is organized not by food type but by family estate — tenuta in Italian — with Polaroids illustrating the makers and their process, which Edwards sees as a way to "emotionally connect patrons to the producers." Some of the singular products on offer: red-onion mostarda; La Nicchia capers, enriched by the island of Pantelleria's volcanic soil; stone-milled, bronze-cut Filippo Drago busiate pasta, the coarse texture of which "creates the perfect surface for sauces," says Edwards. tenuta.market.


Homage in Wood and Silver

Celine's Nevelson Project necklace.Hedi Slimane

Last year, Hedi Slimane, the creative director of Celine, introduced the Celine Artist Jewelry Program, a series of collaborations with the estates of some of his favorite 20th-century artists. The first installment was a necklace of compressed vermeil in the style of the French sculptor César; for the second, which launches this month, Slimane has chosen the pioneering American artist Louise Nevelson, known for her monumental works of mostly found objects often painted black, as well as her own personal style that incorporated self-made jewelry (which Slimane likens to "miniature sculptures"). Each necklace, from a limited edition of 50, is made of oakwood and either sterling silver or vermeil and features a pendant in Nevelson's elegantly abstract sculptural manner, housed in a black box engraved with the artist's signature. From $4,500, celine.com.



A Legendary Fashion Photographer Retrospects

Kate Moss photographed by Juergen Teller for an Index magazine supplement, London, 1998.© Juergen Teller, all rights reserved

By Alison Hugill

T Contributor

For the past 25 years — ever since he shot a nude Kristen McMenamy with the word "Versace" scrawled across her chest and enclosed in a red lipstick heart in 1996 — Juergen Teller has been one of the most provocative, influential and in-demand fashion and celebrity photographers. But his pictures also often resonate beyond their commercial origins, and so a book-length monograph of his oeuvre is as welcome as it is overdue. "Donkey Man and Other Stories" is a collection of his voluminous magazine commissions; portraits of family members, fauna and landscapes; and brief reminiscences both by and of Teller. Iconic photos of Kurt Cobain, Charlotte Rampling, Kate Moss, et al., sit side by side with almost human-seeming frogs (a recurring motif) and invariably phallic still lifes. Regardless of subject matter, jarring juxtapositions are the rule: snails and peaches; nude models prancing in the Louvre; a callipygian Kim Kardashian in stockings and heels scaling a sandpit. $150, rizzoli.com.


Restoring Mezcal's Mystique

Agua Mágica mezcal with a limited-edition gift box by the artist Miguel Cárdenas.David Baum

By Michaela Trimble

T Contributor


Rafael Shin, the founder of the premium mezcal Agua Mágica, is determined to save tequila's smokier cousin from its own popularity. Now that mezcal has assumed pride of place in many a common cocktail, the demand for the cheap stuff has spiked, leading to a race to the bottom as producers seek to fill the void. Shin, South Korean by birth but raised in Mexico, has gone wholly in the other direction, working solely with local mezcaleros in the Oaxacan town of San Juan del Río, whose soil, altitude and abundance of fresh river water have long lent it a certain mystique among mezcal makers. "The mission of our company is to redirect the growth of mezcal and preserve the local communities," he says. The result, Agua Mágica, offers sweet and earthy notes of subtle smoke, banana and almond, and is intended to be savored neat or on the rocks. From $70, aguamagica.com.


Cabinets of Curiosities

From left: Jessica McCormack's It's a Trip Heirloom Jewelry Box, Sky High Ring Box and Be More Pacific Heirloom Watch & Jewelry Box.Courtesy of Jessica McCormack

By Sophie Bew

T Contributor

Fine jeweler Jessica McCormack's devotion to diamonds extends even to how they're housed. For her bespoke Luxury Heirloom Boxes, the designer, whose exquisite creations have been worn by Zoë Kravitz and Dakota Johnson, reimagines antique jewelry cases with hand marquetry and personalized silk-embroidered velvet interiors. And after a recent sold-out experimental collaboration with the Haas brothers — the artist duo renowned for their sculptures of surreal creatures — that "pushed my creative boundaries," McCormack has teamed with them again on three new fantastical boxes in an epic juxtaposition of luxury and kook: an 18th-century satinwood ring box resting on a writhing mass of bronze tentacles; a double watch box in Georgian mahogany with drawers lined with embroidered cephalopods and a cabochon-inlaid tentacle-shaped tiepin; and a full-size jewelry box in Victorian coromandel wood with a secret drawer whose stitching depicts a sort of psychedelic orgy. jessicamccormack.com.


Miyazaki Returns

On one of T's Holiday covers: a film still from "Spirited Away" (2001), directed by Hayao Miyazaki.© 2001 Studio Ghibli

Animation's greatest magician, the Japanese artist Hayao Miyazaki, now 80, is coming out of retirement to cast one last spell. With his films, from "My Neighbor Totoro" (1988), with its vision of gentle friendship between two children and an enormous growling forest creature whom only they can see, to the ecological epic "Princess Mononoke" (1997), whose title character, a human raised by wolves, first appears sucking blood out of a wound in her wolf mother's side, to the phantasmagorical fable "Spirited Away" (2001), in which a timid girl must learn pluck and save her foolish parents by working at a bathhouse that caters to a raucous array of gods, Miyazaki renders the wildest reaches of imagination and the maddest swirls of motion almost entirely by hand. "I believe that the tool of an animator is the pencil," he tells Ligaya Mishan in a rare interview for T's Holiday issue. His visual style, which he honed while working at the Toei Animation studio in the '60s and '70s alongside his mentor and future Studio Ghibli co-founder and collaborator Isao Takahata, is at once commanding and intimate, and above all, his films are thrilling. The forthcoming one concerns a 15-year-old boy in Tokyo, small for his age and fond of mischief, whose father has recently died. It's titled "How Do You Live?" To read the full story, visit us at tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

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2021年11月19日 星期五

The Daily: “I was dying there in the forest”

How President Lukashenko might respond to the crisis he made.

Happy almost Thanksgiving — we hope that the Americans reading all get some time off. If you need a podcast to listen to while prepping your meal, here's a show about brewing the perfect cup of tea and one about cooking across generations. You can also expand your understanding of Native history with these listening recommendations from Indigenous podcasters.

Also, we have a question for you. We're compiling a list of our favorite Daily episodes of 2021, and we'd love for you to weigh in. What was one show that stuck out to you? Tell us here, and your response might be featured in an upcoming newsletter.

The Big Idea: What's Next for the Migrants in Belarus?

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we go deeper on one of those from our show this week.


Surrounded by two Polish border agents, Nassar Masour, 42, a refugee from Syria, rested in a hospital bed on Friday in Bielsk Podlaski, eastern Poland, after crossing from Belarus.Mauricio Lima for The New York Times

The ancient Bialowieza Forest, one of the last wild places in Europe, is quiet. Scattered among the moss and lichen are emptied backpacks, wet blankets and a forgotten ophthalmology prescription written in Arabic. These are the visible remains of the humanitarian and geopolitical crisis manufactured by President Aleksandr G. Lukashenko of Belarus, often called "Europe's last dictator."

Thousands of migrants have been lured to Belarus from the Middle East with flights and visas, then pushed to the border with Poland — part of the European Union — in an effort to create diplomatic leverage for Mr. Lukashenko. As you heard today, the migrants' future is uncertain.


An unknown number of migrants remain hidden in the forest, and some have silently died of exposure while cut off from aid workers and medical assistance. Others who had been living in a makeshift camp were relocated this week to a warehouse just outside the Bruzgi border zone. Though around 400 Iraqi migrants have been sent back to their home country, many still hope to reach the European Union. If they can't cross the Polish border, some migrants say, they will consider settling in Belarus, leaving Mr. Lukashenko to assume responsibility for the crisis he created. But will he allow them to stay?

"What happens depends on a decision from the president," Yuri Karayev, a former interior minister in Belarus who is now an aide to Mr. Lukashenko, said in an interview at the new holding center for migrants, acknowledging Mr. Lukashenko's iron grip on governmental policy.

"Lukashenko will likely make sure that asylum seekers do not apply in Belarus," Alena Kudzko, vice president of the policy institution GLOBSEC, said, noting that Mr. Lukashenko faced minimal pressure from his supporters to accept migrants. Belarus is a predominantly Orthodox Christian nation with little precedent for accepting foreign immigrants. Like Poland and other Eastern European countries, the country has been generally hostile to non-Christian settlers from outside Europe.

On a visit to Warsaw last month, Svetlana Tikhanovskaya, the exiled leader of the Belarusian opposition, said that between 10,000 to 15,000 migrants had already arrived in her country and would become "a huge problem for Lukashenko" if they remained stuck in Belarus. "He has to deal with all these people somehow," she said.


Mr. Lukashenko has shown a proclivity for violence when responding to public unrest, brutally cracking down on protesters. He deploys an all-seeing domestic security apparatus to monitor the public. To Ms. Kudzko, this poses a risk for migrants who try to evade detection and stay in the country.

Ms. Kudzko also said that Belarus did not have a system to integrate immigrants, "nor is the government interested in dedicating already dwindling resources to such a course." She added: "Many of them risk being forcibly removed, or their life will be made so unbearable in Belarus that they would prefer to go anywhere else they can, including back home."

Ms. Kudzko added that Mr. Lukashenko might strategically allow a select number of migrants to gain asylum. "That can be used as a nice narrative for state media," she said. "Contrary to the E.U., the story would go, Belarus is helping humanitarian causes. This number will be very small, though, and will be curated carefully."

The problem is likely to persist for months and to grow as more migrants arrive. The Times heard numerous reports of Polish police officers who were pushing asylum seekers back into Belarus after they made it into Poland.

Times journalists asked Katarzyna Zdanowicz, the spokeswoman for the Polish border guards, about a group of migrants whom they saw being loaded on a military truck and driven to the border guard office. Ms. Zdanowicz responded, "Eleven people did not seek asylum in Poland. They wanted to go to France or Ireland. They received an order to leave Poland. They were escorted to the border line." The Polish police posted pictures of the group on Twitter on Thursday, writing, "The group was taken care of by police officers, who gave them food and water."

The Times was blocked from verifying those reports but witnessed two people applying for asylum with border guards at a hospital in Bielsk Podlaski, Poland.

Nassar Masour, a 42-year-old Syrian man, and Hama Aland Omed, a 20-year-old Kurdish man from Iraq, asked for asylum inside the emergency room. "I just want to save my life," Mr. Aland Omed said. "I was dying there in the forest," he added, sobbing on the hospital bed. "Please help me."

Soon after, Polish border guards transported the men to the local headquarters — and toward an uncertain future.

Do You Have a Story About Seeing Your Parent Differently?

Sometimes all it takes is one incident to upend the image we have of our parents.

Share with the Modern Love podcast a time when you saw a different side of your parents or elders. Send a voice recording (no more than two minutes) with your story to modernlovepodcast@nytimes.com. Start by telling us your full name and where you live. Your story doesn't need to be completely polished, but it should have a beginning, a middle and an end — and it must be yours.

You can find more information here.

On The Daily this week

Monday: The Times investigation into a deadly, and erroneous, airstrike in Syria that was hidden by the U.S.

Tuesday: Part 1 of our look into a new American political battleground: school boards.

Wednesday: Part 2 of our examination of the school board wars.

Thursday: The U.S. economy is doing well. So why do Americans feel bad about it?

Friday: How the desperation of President Aleksandr Lukashenko of Belarus has led to a diplomatic and humanitarian crisis.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you in two weeks, after the holiday.

Have thoughts about the show? Tell us what you think at thedaily@nytimes.com.

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